Short technical notes on common topics in raw material selection and formulation. Usage-level tables and formulation templates are available to Partner Portal members.
L-ascorbic acid oxidises readily in the presence of water, light, oxygen and metal ions. It is more stable at low pH, which is why more stable derivatives such as 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbyl phosphate are often preferred in cosmetics. Chelating agents and light-proof packaging support stability.
The antimicrobial activity of benzoic acid and sorbic acid salts depends on the undissociated acid form. The pKa of benzoic acid is about 4.2 and that of sorbic acid about 4.8, so both preservatives are markedly more effective in acidic products.
Methylparaben and propylparaben have low water solubility. In practice they are pre-dissolved in the heated water phase or in glycols such as propylene glycol before addition; propylparaben is more lipophilic than methylparaben.
Xanthan gum tends to form lumps when added directly to water. Pre-dispersing it in glycerin or glycols, or dry-blending it with other powders, makes uniform hydration easier. It gives stable, pseudoplastic (shear-thinning) viscosity over a wide pH and temperature range.
Carbomer forms an acidic, low-viscosity dispersion in water; it thickens into a gel when neutralised with a base such as sodium hydroxide or triethanolamine. Electrolytes and some cationic ingredients can reduce viscosity.
Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions are generally made with high-HLB emulsifiers (about 8–18) and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions with low-HLB emulsifiers (about 3–6). In practice, low- and high-HLB emulsifiers are blended to reach the target HLB.
Vitamins, botanical extracts, fragrance and some actives can degrade or evaporate at high temperature. In hot emulsification processes they are usually added in the cool-down phase, once the batch is below about 40 °C.
In the European Union, Annex V of Regulation (EC) No 1333/2008 requires foods containing E102, E104, E110, E122, E124 or E129 to carry the statement “may have an adverse effect on activity and attention in children”. Check the regulations of the target export market as well.
Titanium dioxide is no longer authorised as a food additive in the European Union under Regulation (EU) 2022/63. Its use in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals is governed by the respective regulations; check the current rules of the target market.
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